Beginner’s Guide to Choosing Wood for DIY Projects
When you're new to DIY, one of the most confusing parts of starting a project is figuring out what kind of wood to use. Walk into any big box store, and you're faced with a wall of options: pine, poplar, oak, plywood, pressure-treated, kiln-dried... it can feel overwhelming fast.
When I first started reading DIY tutorials, I remember getting so frustrated that no one ever mentioned what kind of wood they used. That lack of detail made it harder to learn, and I don’t want that to be your experience.
In this post, I’m breaking down the most common types of wood and wood treatments you’ll find at stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s. We’ll look at price, appearance, durability, and when to use what- all from the perspective of a beginner who’s still learning (and doesn’t want to waste money on the wrong materials).
Common Wood Species at Big Box Stores
Pine
Type: Softwood
Price: Very affordable
Look: Yellow-toned, may have knots
Durability: Soft and dents easily
Best For: Hidden or structural parts of your project where appearance isn’t important
As a beginner, I use pine for things that won’t be seen- it’s cheap and easy to work with. Just know it dents easily, has a yellow undertone and can warp easily if not stored properly.
Poplar
Type: Hardwood (technically, but still fairly soft)
Price: Mid-range
Look: Cooler tones with a smooth, uniform grain
Durability: More dent-resistant than pine
Best For: Painted projects, visible trim, beginner furniture builds
Poplar is my go-to for most of my builds. It’s smooth, easy to work with, and holds up better than pine. It costs a little more but I’ve found it’s worth it, especially when I want the finished piece to look nice.
Oak, Cherry, Walnut, etc.
Type: Hardwoods
Price: Expensive
Look: Beautiful grain, natural color
Durability: Very strong and long-lasting
Best For: High-end furniture and projects once your skills improve
These are amazing woods but as a beginner I avoid them unless it's for something small. You’ll spend more, and they’re harder to work with.
Plywood
Type: Engineered wood
Price: Varies by grade and thickness
Look: Wood veneer on the outside, layers inside
Durability: Strong when supported properly
Best For: Cabinet boxes, large surfaces, shelves
Make sure you buy cabinet-grade plywood if it’s going to be visible. The cheap stuff will splinter and look rough.
MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard)
Type: Engineered
Price: Affordable
Look: Smooth, consistent surface with no visible grain
Durability: Heavy and stable, but can chip or sag if unsupported
Best For: Painted projects, built-ins, trim, accent wall designs
MDF is a great option for projects where you want a super smooth finish and don’t need a natural wood look. It paints beautifully and is often cheaper than plywood, but it’s heavy and doesn’t hold screws as well so it’s best used where it won’t be under a lot of stress or moisture exposure.
Understanding Wood Treatments
Pressure-Treated: Treated to resist rot and insects. Best for outdoor use only. The chemicals used can be corrosive and aren’t safe for indoor furniture.
Kiln-Dried (KD): Dried in a kiln to reduce moisture. Less likely to warp or twist. Most interior-use wood at big box stores is kiln-dried.
Green or Wet Wood: Not dried. Cheaper, but more likely to warp as it dries so avoid for interior projects.
Nominal vs Actual Dimensions
This one throws off every beginner: The listed size is not the true size!
Examples:
A board labeled as 1x4 is actually about 3/4" x 3.5"
A 2x4 is actually 1.5" x 3.5"
Note: Board lengths are not affected — an 8-foot board is actually 8 feet long.
A quick google search often comes in handy to confirm actual dimensions. But always measure before cutting or designing anything!
Tips for Picking Straight Boards
Look down the length of the board from one end to easily spot a bed in the board.
Lay it flat on the ground or against a known straight board to see if it bows or lifts off the surface. This is a great way to spot subtle bends.
Avoid boards that twist, bow, or have large knots.
Dig through the stack- the straight ones are usually hiding at the bottom.
Money-Saving Tips
Compare prices by length. Sometimes a 12-ft board is cheaper than two 6-ft boards.
Don’t overbuy. Bring a cut list and shop with a plan.
Use cheaper wood for hidden parts, and upgrade the visible pieces.
When you’re just getting started, it’s totally okay to keep things simple and affordable. I started out using mostly pine, and still do, especially for practice cuts or hidden supports. As I’ve gotten more comfortable with my tools and process, I feel better about spending a little extra on poplar for nicer projects.
The more you build, the better you’ll get at choosing the right wood for the right job and hopefully this guide helps take a little of the guesswork out of it!
